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Bed Level Test Generator: First Layer Squares for Your Bed

Type your bed size and the generator places a thin square in each corner and the centre (or a 3 x 3 grid), one first layer thick. Print it and look at each square: where the lines are gappy the nozzle is too high, where they are rough or see-through the nozzle is too low. Turn that corner's knob and print again until all squares look the same.

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How to level your bed with this test

  1. 1

    Enter your bed

    Type the bed width and depth, or pick a common size. Keep the squares far enough from the edge to miss the clips and the unheated rim.

  2. 2

    Pick a pattern

    Corners + centre matches the four leveling knobs. The 3 x 3 grid shows a warped bed. Squares + frame adds a thin line round the edge.

  3. 3

    Slice and print

    Let the slicer centre the model, set the first layer height to the value you typed, and print with your usual first-layer speed and temperature.

  4. 4

    Read each square

    Compare the squares. Adjust the knob next to any square that is gappy (too high) or rough (too low), then print again until they all match.

How to read a first-layer square

Look at each square from the top, and feel it. The table under the preview says which knob sits next to each square.

GoodLines are slightly squished, touch each other with no gaps and the top feels smooth. The square peels off as one solid sheet.
Too highRound lines with gaps between them, or lines that do not stick and drag. Bring the nozzle closer at that corner.
Too lowRough, wavy or see-through surface, ridges at the sides of lines, or no plastic at all. Move the nozzle away at that corner.
Only the centre is offThe bed is warped, not tilted. Knobs will not fix it: use a mesh (auto) bed leveling probe, or a flat glass or steel sheet.
All squares off the same wayThe bed is level, but the Z offset is wrong. Change the Z offset (baby stepping) instead of the knobs.

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Turn a photo or a sentence into a 3D model with an STL download, ready to slice. The AI generators use credits; this calibration tool does not.

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Bed level test FAQ

Print the squares, then look at each one. Gappy lines mean the nozzle is too far from the bed at that spot, rough or thin lines mean it is too close. Turn the leveling knob next to that square a little, print again, and stop when all squares look the same.
The printable size of your bed in millimetres, the same numbers your slicer uses for the build plate. For example 220 x 220 or 235 x 235 for many small printers and 256 x 256 or 300 x 300 for larger ones.
One layer, at the first layer height you print with (often 0.2 to 0.3 mm). The generator uses the height you type. A second layer can help you see the result more clearly, but one layer shows leveling best.
The bed is not flat: it bows up or dips in the middle. Leveling knobs only tilt the bed, so they cannot fix it. Use the 3 x 3 grid to see the shape, then use a mesh leveling probe, a flat build plate, or shims under the plate.
Yes. Print the 3 x 3 grid after the probe makes its mesh. If all squares look the same the mesh works. If one area is off, check the probe offset and the Z offset, or probe more points.
The table under the preview lists each square and its centre in bed coordinates, with the front-left corner at 0, 0. The pattern is symmetric, so when the slicer centres the model, every square lands where the table says.
No. The model is built in your browser and downloaded straight to your device. It is free, with no signup and no upload.

The STL holds the exact sizes in the table. Turn the knobs in small steps with the printer cool or at print temperature as your printer's manual says, and keep your hands clear of a hot nozzle.